INT 323  TEXTILES, MATERIALS AND SOURCING

 

Welcome to the FAll 2021  INT 323 Blog!  Please make your posts each Sunday prior to 6pm. Comment on your peers posts at least twice per week. Initial posts should be at least 200 word, preferable 250 words complete with photos and sources. When making comments to your peers posts, remain respectful at all time encouraging robust discussion. Use references to help each other gain master of this subject matter. Upon completion of your initial post, please email the link to Professor Kaufman.

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  1. My blog this week, I chose to read about the Architecture 2030 goal. This organization is striving towards having a cleaner and healthier environment starting with our buildings. Carbon emissions have become a largely popular topic in recent years, with this being the main cause of global warming and trapped greenhouse gases. They have established three areas that are to be targeted to help cut back the emissions. Controlling new buildings, embodied carbon, and existing building will help reduce carbon emissions. It is stated that population is rising at rapid rates "The world is currently undergoing the largest wave of urban growth in human history. More than half of the global population is now concentrated in urban areas" (“Existing Buildings: Operational Emissions.” Architecture 2030, architecture2030.org/existing-buildings-operation/.)With the amount of housing and other facilities needing to increase in urban areas, CO2 emissions have risen about 1% each year since 2010 and are projected to keep increasing. The way we begin to construct these new buildings needs to be done in an environmental friendly manner in order to help combat climate change. We are currently in what is called a "critical window of opportunity" meaning if we don't start to implicate carbon free methods to building it will soon be at the point of no return. The ruling that the Paris Agreement outlined was that any new building must be designed to be energy efficient and use no CO2 emissions in the process. Embodied carbon is another category where adjustment is needed in order to achieve their goal. Almost half of the carbon emissions today come from embodied carbon which, is in materials such as concrete, iron, and steel. These particular materials alone account for roughly 9% of the yearly emissions. Other items such as transportation are classified as embodied carbon. "Every year, 6.13 billion square meters of buildings are constructed. The embodied carbon emissions of that construction is approximately 3729 million metric tons CO2 per year" (“Existing Buildings: Operational Emissions.” Architecture 2030, architecture2030.org/existing-buildings-operation/.) The reason embodied carbons are such a large issue is due to the fact that once they are used they are they and constantly emitting. The only way to control these is to find an alternative substance and slowly faze out the embodied carbons. Operational carbons on the other hand, is something that can be reduced as buildings become more environmentally friendly. In a recent study it was found that "nearly two-thirds of the building area that exist today will still exist in 2050"(). With this fact, lowering emissions also applies to the existing buildings since they will continue to be prevalent in our world. Many cities have been trying to figure out a plan of how this can be achieved. New buildings that have met environmental standards to become carbon neutral only account for a small portion of the overall goal. The objective set out for existing buildings ,as stated in the Paris Agreement, is that "the rate and depth of existing building energy efficiency renovations and the generation and procurement of renewable energy (energy upgrades) is required" (“Existing Buildings: Operational Emissions.” Architecture 2030, architecture2030.org/existing-buildings-operation/.) The goal of the Architecture 2030 organization can be achieved in the proper timeline if builders comply with safe buildings helping to lead to a healthier future.





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  2. Chapter 4 Blog

    Twill Weaving

    The twill pattern consists of diagonal lines across the fabric but, the direction of the lines means a different pattern. If the diagonal lines go from lower left to the upper right, it is called a right handed twill or a z-twill. When the lines move from lower right to upper left it is considered a left handed twill or an s-twill. There are more distinctions in the twill pattern to help create unique looks to each type. The angle at which the threads are placed changed the look of the twill, normally the angles range between 15-75 degrees. Generally a 45 degree angle is what is considered a traditional twill pattern, these angles depend upon the ratio of warp yarns to fill yarns. Twill angles that are below 45 degrees are considered to be reclining twill and those above are called steep twills. While twills themselves can be defined as a z or s twill, the strands of yarn can also be classified as such. If the angle of the yarn strand matches the slant of the center of the letter "z" then it is a z shaped yarn the same goes for the s shaped yarns. The video I watched on the twill weaving was confusing at times but, I had never known there were so many types of twill weave patterns.

    The Fire Test to Differentiate Fabrics

    In this article, it address that in order to figure out what type of fabric you have it can be detected by the way it burns or melts. Each fabric has distinctive properties which affects how it reacts to fires. Fabrics that come from natural plants, the cellulose fabrics, all react the same way to a burn. These fabrics include cotton, linen, hemp, rayon, and bamboo. To tell if your fabric belongs in this category, it will burn quickly with white smoke appearing. The smoke will have a similar scent burning leaves. The protein fibers (silk, wool, cashmere etc.) take a longer time to burn and start to curl and crinkle from the flame. Once the flame is gone, the fabric will not stay ablaze which means little smoke is produced. Lastly, the synthetic fibers burn very quickly and do not need the flame to linger for the fabric to still blaze. These fabrics can even start to melt and the smoke produced is black and can become dangerous.

    Fabric Testing Tensile Strength Test

    During this test the durability and strength of the fabric is tested to see how long the life of the product is. The test strip is measure and placed into clamps so the fabric is vertical. First it is elongated to make sure the extension of the fabric is correct. Once the measurements are correct, the test begins by stretching the fabric slowly until the fabric snaps. The test measures the amount of force used to snap the fabric and also how far the piece of fabric extended until it snapped.

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