Linen & Raw Wool

 Raw Wool to Finished Fabric

Wool is a protein fiber that has many desirable qualities, such as its softness and fire resistance. The process of how wool is taken from a raw material to the finished product is quite interesting.  First and foremost  the sheering process must take place to obtain the raw material (sometimes called fleece) and then it can be shipped to the factory to be processed. Once the fleece arrives at the factory it is inspected to see the diameter and thickness of the material so the use of the fabric can be determined, this process is called classing. Next the fleece is scoured in order to clean off any dirt, dust, or other materials from the farm. It is cleaned in hot water and then dried to move to the next step. The wools from separate batches are then mechanically blended together to get more regular in the size of the fibers. When these different batches are mixed together they can form knots and have a rough appearance, so they are carded to get out the knots. This process also helps to align the fibers so it looks as seamless as possible. The thinner, longer fleeces are also combed to maintain the soft smooth finish. Now that the material is smooth, it is spun mechanically by spinning the ends of the fabric together. The thickness and strength of the fibers can be altered in this stage. The fabric is then taken and woven on the looms that are computerized to make whichever design or pattern desired. the wool is then dyed and finished to be sent out for use.


How Linen is Made
Linen fabrics are cellulosic in nature as they are made from the flax plant. The most amount of growth of the flax plant is actually in Europe, between France and Amsterdam. The flax plant has a pretty quick turn around time as it it planted in March and harvested in July. The plant grows to about 4' and blooms with blue and white flowers, but only for one day. Unlike other plants you cannot be cut, it must be uprooted from the ground in order to preserve the plant. Once the plants have been uprooted they lay on the field for several weeks to expose them to moisture to further bond the fibers. The plants are regularly turned in a process known as retting to help keep them dry. Once it is completely dry it is removed in bales from the fields. The fibers are separated from the roots and combed. They are then turned into a fine fiber that is ready for spinning and weaving. When they are spun, they can be spun into different thicknesses and weights. Some fibers are spun wet in order to give them a softer more lustrous appearance while others are spun dry to get a tougher fiber. These fabrics can receive several different finishing treatments such as dyeing, bleaching, washing, fire retardant etc. 







Reaources:
How Is Wool Turned Into Fabric? (oureverydaylife.com)
(378) Mill Tour - Raw Wool to Finished Fabric - YouTube
(378) How Linen Is Made - YouTube


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